Our day had begun with an architecture and history tour in the city of Forli (more to come about that) and we were on our way to what our blog project leader, Italian blogger Alessandra Catania, said was a “surprise” for lunch. It was a rainy day in Romagna and along the way on the main road that goes from Forli to Florence, it started to rain very heavily. Behind the wheel, Alessandra turned the wipers on full speed and slowed down our van to better navigate the road in such a downpour.
I just barely made out a road sign indicating that Portico di Romagna was about 20km ahead. I had a touch of longing to keep driving to that little village where Mr. TWS and I had spent a wonderful four days feeling like part of the family. I speculated that a return visit might be our surprise. But soon, we made a turn off the road and headed into another small village, Dovadola, a town of about 1700 residents 20km southwest of Forli. Although I assumed we’d be stopping at a place in town, we continued on, climbing a winding road through a forested area in the hills. As we climbed, the rain subsided and we took in our surroundings.
On the grounds of Trattoria Montepaolo
We were soon slowing down on a driveway leading to our destination and an experience that I savored at the time and remember fondly.
The trattoria
Even at first glance, Trattoria Montepaolo appeared to offer warm, welcoming comfort, especially inviting on a chilly, rainy day like this.
Trattoria Montepaolo
The trattoria has a lovely, secluded location in the Apennine hills, with a pastoral view even beautiful in the rain. The building looked like a perfect spot to spend a little time on such a day, so peaceful and out of the way that I wondered how anyone would even know about it. But the secret is out!
Lovely view from lawn of Trattoria Montepaolo
Although it was very quiet outside as we approached the entrance, the restaurant was bustling inside and all the tables appeared to be filled with diners. The aromas of the food were enticing and I couldn’t wait for lunch. The restaurant turned out to be larger than it first appeared as we were led to a smaller dining area where a table had been set for our group of bloggers as well as our guides for the day, Lisa Rodi and Dovadola mayor, Gabriele Zelli.
The cozy ambiance
Left: Lisa Rodi, Alessandra Catania, Gabriele Zelli Top right: Penny Sadler
Bottom right: Alessandra and me
The chef
Chef Franco Gamberini had been attracted by the beauty of this location on Monte Paolo and decided in 2001 to open his trattoria here. He and his wife Eleanor warmly welcome guests and serve creative culinary specialties of the Romagna and Tuscany regions, including homemade pasta and bread.
Chef Franco Gamberini
The food
Our group left the food choices up to our Italian friends who chose delicious courses of which I’ve just got a few photos to show you. My mind is usually on digging in to the food before I take a photo! The courses included both meat and vegetarian varieties and were accompanied with select, carefully chosen wines, including of course, the region’s signature Sangiovese.
Fossa cheese, mushrooms, arugula, and pomegranate
This beautiful and innovative salad of mushrooms, arugala, fossa cheese and pomegranate shown above was a big hit with me. Fossa cheese (formaggio di fossa), special to the Romagna area, is a sharp, firm sheep’s milk cheese that literally means “pit cheese” as it is aged deep underground in straw-lined pits. The pasta dishes below were warm and hearty — perfect comfort food.
Tortelli di zucca e parmigiano con pancetta e porro (Pumpkin ravioli with parmesan, bacon and leek)
Passatelli su crema di porro e formaggio di Fossa (Passatelli cream of leek and Fossa cheese)
Tagliatelle al ragu di chianina (Tagliatelle with Chianina beef sauce)
(Thanks to Penny Sadler for providing me with Italian menu descriptions.)
After our ample family-style meal, we were happily full and ready to take a drive back into Dovadola to explore the village led by our local guides, Lisa and the mayor. There will be more to come in a future post about the extraordinary experience there.
But as a bonus, we were invited back later in the day to Trattoria Montepaolo for a special activity arranged just for us. When we returned, the restaurant was closed for the late afternoon so I was able to take this photo of the main dining area with its beautiful view through the picture windows.
Main dining room
Our treat was a chance to learn from the chefs as they made pasta and piadinas. I didn’t have the hands-on experience that I got making pasta fresca in Santarcangelo in June, but I thoroughly enjoyed watching and appreciating the experts.
Pasta making at Trattoria Montepaolo
In the Trattoria Montepaolo kitchen making piadinas
And perhaps the best part was sitting down at lovely tables set for us to sample the freshly made piadinas with delicious regional meats and wine.
Freshly-made piadinas and meats
Always follow your heart
“Always follow your heart”
As we entered and left the trattoria, this heart-shaped sign was visible above an archway offering a comforting and lovely message — ” Segui sempre il tuo cuore” meaning “Always follow your heart”.
For more information: Trattoria Montepaolo
Foodie travel tip: If you are in the Emilia-Romagna region during October, Dovadola is hosting their annual Truffle Fair and Festival on two Sundays, October 20th and 27th, 2013. The festival has been held there for over 40 years and is dedicated to the “Tuber magnatum pico” (white truffle) that is so abundant in Romagna.
Disclosure: This post was a part of Buonvivere Blog Tour, organized by Settimana del Buonvivere in collaboration with 21grammy.
I’m linking this post to Marcia Mayne’s “Foodie Tuesday” series on Inside Journeys and Nancie McKinnon’s Budget Traveler’s Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday. Check out links to more travel inspiration on their sites.
Fun article! I remember that day well. Love the “follow your heart.” And especially like the photos. wink wink.
Isn’t that a nice message? It kind of sets the mood for the place when you arrive and gives you a good feeling as you’re leaving.
Trattoria Montepaolo is picturesque and I love that you went you to have a local experience, a bit off the path and dined like royalty. Now that’s what I call una bella esperienza. *grin*
Oh, I’m impressed with your Italian, Maria! Grazie for coming by!
Beautiful place 🙂
It was such a lovely setting — would love to be there on a warm summer day and sit outside.
Wonderful!
Grazie, Emilio! It was nice to meet you in Romagna!
Wow amazing. I wish I could visit. Your post has made my mouth want pasta.
Have a wonderful week. I am linking up through Travel Photo Thursday.
I was hungry when I arrived at the trattoria, but as soon as I walked in the door and smelled the aromas, I was absolutely craving their pasta. It was a delicious experience.
I’m going out to what is considered Calgary’s best Italian restaurant tomorrow night to celebrate a wedding anniversary but I bet it doesn’t come close to what you’ve been dining on. The meals look scrumptious. Piadinas are new to me and as a carb lover I’m sure I’d be scarfing them down.
I had my first piadina when I was in Emilia-Romagna in June. They can be habit-forming. How was your Italian dinner experience in Calgary?
I don’t blame you, Cathy. It’s hard not to dig in first then take photos of these delicious meals. And such a beautiful setting too. It was lovely that they invited you back for the demonstration.
Thanks for the intro to Chef Franco and the tour!
I’ve been so lucky to experience such wonderful meals that I really should get better at taking photos. Fun to share them and get mouths watering. 🙂
Oh, and thanks for linking up this week, Cathy!
Looking forward to more Italian deliciousness.
This post made me hungry 🙂 Looks like a great time!
Mission accomplished, Amy. Hope you were able to satisfy your hunger with something delicious. Maybe pasta?
You are becoming a pasta making expert! I have never tried piadinas, but it looks delicious as do all the dishes you pictured. Both the meal and the demo sound like they turned out to be a wonderful surprise.
Well, I can hardly call myself an expert pasta maker, but maybe with a few more lessons in Italy. 🙂
Yum! I love this time of year in Italy when fresh pumpkin is a focus of so many dishes.
Pumpkin is a big favorite of ours. I make a lot of pumpkin pies this time of year. Wish I could make some of those fab Italian dishes.
This looks like one of those very special reasons to visit Emilia Romagna!
Like there aren’t enough reasons to go to Emilia-Romagna, I find another one. 🙂
Everything was fabulous and I had such a great time with you on this #Buonvivere Blog tour! Let’s do it again!
I don’t think I could ever get tired of visiting this wonderful region of Italy.
Well thanks for making me so hungry for pasta already today – first thing in the morning! Wonderful exposé about this unique stop on your journey. I hope to find it myself one day! Gracie:-)
Yeah, pasta cravings in the morning aren’t good. You have to wait too long to get them satisfied. Hope you had an early lunch today!
What a wonderful experience. Made my mouth water.
Excellent – I know you have a discerning palate, so I really appreciate that.
“Always follow your heart”! I love it! Absolutely stunning location and the food could not be more tempting! I am in falling with culinary arts by reading about them! Who knew it could be so full of wonder and temptation?!
Imagine being a blogger that specializes in food blogging. The temptations must be incredible! 🙂
You know me and comfort food, Cathy! The picture of the view from lawn of Trattoria Montepaolo is absolutely awesome. Once again, you write a post where I want to be sitting and enjoying right there in the moment. I’m curious on that one dish as to the pomegranate?? Very interesting. Made by hand from scratch pasta oh how yummy 🙂
I do know how much of a comfort food guy you are, Mike. I can just see you sitting outside at Trattoria Montepaolo with a nice dish of tagliatelle. Yes?
Thanks for remembering to take photos of the food before it was too late 😉 Those dishes look “authentic” and enticing. Thanks also for sharing this restaurant. Although the locals know about it, for a tourist, it would have to be a destination meal. I visited friends in Florence (Firenze) once who took me on the public bus to Fiesole overlooking the city for dinner at sunset—-one of the highlights of my trip and definitely not somewhere I would have thought to venture to on my own.
Unfortunately, I didn’t quite get a shot of all the courses. I just can’t help it! Sounds like your Fiesole experience was exceptional, too. Those are the best times, aren’t they?
With views and food like that, what more could you ask for!
This looks like a great place to eat a lovely Italian meal. Good to know about another lesser known location in Italy. 🙂
All that food looks so yummy! It’s also making me feel guilty for eating a big cheap bag of cheese and bacon flavoured balls just now…!
Looks so warm, welcoming and typical of Emilia-Romagna
I love surprises — especially when it involves food! This looks like a great day and now I want Italian food!
Pingback: Top 5 Reasons to Visit Emilia-Romagna » Traveling with Sweeney