If Only in My Dreams
My favorite places in Europe to kick off the Christmas season
Come along and dream with me about Christmases past and those to come.
Just Santa and me on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris
My first time: England
Christmas in London
I’ll never forget our first European Christmas experience in London. We enthusiastically soaked up the festive decorations, lively pubs, busy shops, Evensong service at St. Paul’s Cathedral, and the traditional tree lighting at Trafalgar Square. I think it’s important to note that for many years Norway has been giving the people of London a Norway pine to be the holiday tree in gratitude for British assistance during World War II.
Christmas in London: Trafalgar Square tree lighting, Covent Garden, fountain in Trafalgar Square
Update December 2023 — We kicked off the holidays in London again this year. What a great time!
So many markets, so little time: Germany
Germany is well known for its festive Christmas markets for good reason. My very first Christmas market experiences were here in Berlin. Although there are many more markets in many more cities in Germany for me to visit, this list should give you some great places to start.
Christmas in Berlin
As I neared Charlottenburg Palace I could hear the sounds of laughter and music. My mouth started watering from the aromas of grilling sausages. The lights and the festive sights were tantalizing. This was my first ever European Christmas market and I was forever hooked. I later went to the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market and continued the enjoyment of food, drink, and holiday spirit.
Christmas market at Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin
Christmas in Hamburg
The markets of Hamburg have an especially warm and friendly feel. I reveled in the ambiance of the large market at the Rathaus and more modest ones in smaller squares around the city.
Christmas tree and market at the Rathaus in Hamburg
Christmas in Nuremberg
We began our Viking Danube River cruise in Nuremberg. The Christmas market on the Hauptmarkt, the main city square in Nuremberg, is Germany’s largest market and considered by many to be one of the best in Europe with high quality crafts and delicious lebkuchen, a traditional spicy gingerbread treat.
Christmas Market crafts and lebkuchen (a tasty gingerbread specialty) in Nuremberg, Germany
Christmas in Passau
Passau was a stop on our Viking cruise on the Danube River. Locals and tourists alike didn’t seem to mind the quite cold and damp weather as they celebrated the season with toasts of glühwein and shopping for gifts.
Christmas market at St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Passau, Germany
Christmas in Munich
There are several Christmas markets in Munich, a city that radiates a joy of the season in its numerous Christmas markets. I especially enjoyed the market at Neues Rathaus, a perfectly picturesque setting. We also took time for a glass of glühwein at the market at the Munich Residenz and shopped the booths at Mittelaltermarkt (a medieval-themed market).
Marienplatz Weihnachtsmarkt at Neues Rathaus in Munich, Germany
Christmas in Prien-am-Chiemsee
The Christmas market on Frauenchiemsee Island near Prien-am-Chiemsee is one of my favorites for its unique setting on an entire island in Lake Chiemsee. It seemed much like a winter wonderland.
Christmas Market on Frauenchiemsee Island, Prien am Chiemsee
Christmas in Lübeck
In Lubeck, not only did I indulge in the typical market fare like sausages, I made sure to sample the city’s famous Marzipan cake at one of the top cafes. It’s a specialty that you don’t want to miss.
Christmas Market, Lübeck, Germany
Sleigh bells ring in Austria
Christmas in Salzburg
The hills (and the city) are alive with the Christmas spirit during December in Salzburg. We loved our time here meandering the snowy streets decorated for the season and strolling the markets in the old town and at Hohensalzburg Fortress.
Christmas market at Hohensalzburg Fortress in Salzburg, Austria
Christmas in Vienna
Vienna has many treasures — Mozart, the waltz, architecture, palaces, Sacher Torte, and the many Christmas markets throughout the city. The markets at Schönbrunn Palace and Rathausplatz are our favorites.
Toasting with glühwein and posing as an angel, at the festive Rathausplatz Christmas Market
Simply magical: Czech Republic
Christmas in Prague
I dreamed of Prague for many years and when I finally got to visit it was during the Christmas season. It was so magical that we went back for another December visit to Prague a few years later.
Christmas market in Old Town Prague
Intriguing and beautiful: Hungary
Christmas in Budapest
Budapest is one of my favorite cities in any season and we’ve had the pleasure of visiting twice in the month of December. The main Christmas markets in this intriguing city are in gorgeous settings at St. Stephen’s Cathedral and Vörösmarty Square.
Christmas market at St. Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest
Christmas in Szentendre
Szentendre is a nice side trip from Budapest. We spent a few hours there getting a taste of Christmas in this small Hungarian village less than one hour away from the city on the HEV train.
Szentendre, Hungary
A mysterious Christmas: Slovakia
Christmas in Bratislava
It was a quick visit — just one night and morning to get a taste of Bratislava and its Christmas festivities, but it was delightful. There was also a different kind of feeling here — a bit mysterious as exemplified by this scene of the Christmas tram on the foggy night that we visited.
Christmas tram in Bratislava
Romance and rich cultural traditions: France
The French Christmas markets we’ve visited seem a bit more subdued than other European markets, but they are still full of fun and tasty treats. In fact, instead of glühwein, I sipped champagne while admiring the arts and crafts of the market vendors.
Christmas in Paris
In Paris, there is added element of romance to the Christmas season. Some of my favorite things are to stroll the Champs-Elysees and narrow streets of charming neighborhoods, admire the city-wide holiday decor and Christmas tree at Notre Dame, and the sparkling lights of the Eiffel Tower on a brisk winter evening.
Lights and decorations of the Champs-Élysées, Galeries Lafayette, and Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris
Christmas in Provence
In the French region of Provence. we enjoyed learning about the rich Christmas traditions of the region, especially the 13 desserts and santons (the little saints).
Faire aux Santons in Marseille, France
Mr. TWS and I look forward to many more opportunities to experience the beauty, fun, and traditions of Christmas in Europe.
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As your photos show, Europe offers so much more during the holiday season beyond its markets: decorations, traditions, special foods, events and being surrounded by joyful locals. A decided perk for braving the cold!
I have never been to Europe over Christmas. It looks like the Christmas markets make it SO worthwhile!
I very much enjoyed following you along on your visit to Christmas markets. I have that Viking cruise on my bucket list.
What an inspiring and insightful look at European Christmas markets. I have only been to them in Barcelona and Monaco. Surely I have some more work to do!
What an interesting read. I think I want to go to the markets in Salzburg. I really haven’t thought about traveling to Europe in the winter for the markets. This post may have changed my mind. It’s put me in the holiday spirit.
I don’t if you remember telling you a few years back that Germany/Austria/Switzerland is my lifelong bucket list. So reading this put such a big smile on my face! Oh and by the way, I’m going to give it my all and see if it’s meant to be – I started writing again on my blog. If you read it (it’s short) you’ll get some enightening info about your ol’ friend in Reno. Wishing you and Mr TWS a great weekend Cathy! 🙂
We have some wonderful memories of Viennese markets at Christmas from a few years ago. The one in from of Rathaus in particular was amazing.
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Oh my, you have spent a lot of Christmas’s in European towns and cities. I will start with one in London, too. But live live love that team in Bratislava! But why not Paris?
Take another look! We’ve been to Paris in December three times and totally loved the winter romantic ambiance.
While we have never experienced Christmas across Europe, we can imagine how wonderful it must be to see in person. Fortunately, you have assisted in our daydream by posting these beautiful images of the historic displays. We hope you have a marvelous holiday.
Happy holidays to you, too! Christmas in Europe is very special for us and we hope to experience it again in 2021. Mr. TWS’s birthday is in December, so we consider it a birthday gift for him, too.
Wow! You’ve been to so many places for the Christmas holidays! I’ve never visited Europe in winter (why would I, when I get plenty of winter in Minnesota), but I’ve started eyeing those Christmas markets and about a year ago decided that this would be a good winter to visit Germany for the Christmas markets. You can guess how that worked out!
Question: Do you usually visit as part of an independent trip, or do you do a cruise or tour? Do you have a recommendation?
I hear you that you don’t need to travel to experience winter, but there is something extra magical about Europe in winter. Of course, I also enjoy winter in Chicago (my old hometown). 🙂 We travel in a variety of ways — independently, a few river cruises and one Viking ocean cruise. We love them all. I think it depends on the destination and the experience you’re looking for. I hope you’ll look through some our old posts to get some ideas.
Well for fear of sounding like Grinch, if you were here this year you would find the markets shut down as well as many of the larger cities as the European Union is still fighting the pandemic with both gloves on. Hopefully, by next Christmas we will at least have a bit of what we once knew as the kind of Christmas’s you showed us in this lovely trip down Memory Lane. Have a great Christmas!
As I mentioned in the update paragraph, I know that many, possibly all, the markets would be closed this year and people should check with the city or other resources. But it’s nice to reminisce and think toward a brighter future.
Your photos have broght the festive season to life. I not yet been to Christmas markets in Europe. I would most likely start with Munich.
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